It's all ZERO's!

Can you see the BORDER!!! Monument right below

This last and final blog has been very difficult for me to get motivated to write. This means that the PCT trek is really over for me. The ultimate realization that this is not just some long zero days. Washington is where I left off with the my blog writing. Thanks to Maureen and my sister’s for filling in when needed.

Mica Lake

Cutthroat Pass

Glacier Peak

Rain. After I left Trout Lake Abbey, it began raining through the supposedly very scenic Goat Rocks, which unfortunately I wasn’t able to enjoy as the constant downpour of rain. This weather pattern continued until I was at Stehekin. This was about 350 miles. Steven’s Pass, Hwy 2. 22 miles west to hitchhike to the Dinsmore’s, in Baring, Washington,. The trail crosses at Steven’s Pass and this is where you need to find a ride to the Dinsmore’s. Baring consisted of a café, post office, and micro market. That’s it. And the Dinsomore’s. They have about 2-3 acres of lawn, gazebo and 8 bunk beds in a shed/barn. There is a small kitchen, recliners, TV, DVD player. Nice spot after all the weather. Got there late and spent the night in the gazebo under a big rain storm. Went to the café to the nicest people ever. Locals all spoke of an upcoming storm and the small group of us decided to stay another night with the Dinsmore’s. That afternoon was dry and I was able to get my gear dried out, just in time for another BIG storm. Lightening, thunder, and heavy downpour all night long. Was so happy we made the decision to stay. Got a ride out at 9am. Was on trail with Scabby and Teabag, although they walked further. I stopped after 18 miles of downpour. Rained all night long. Camped, huddled together with a dozen or so other hikers. Woke up to rain, packed up wet gear and off for a 22 mile day in constant downpour. That night as I was pitching my tent, it finally began to slow down. That part of the trail, Section J/K, is really so remote and receives NO trail maintenance, overgrown and a difficult trail to hike. There was a reroute over the Suiattle River, where a new bridge was being built. This was the best part of this section. Then the weather changed. Sun came out and warmed up a bit. Now Washington became nice and was as “advertised.” Pushed hard that day with 27 miles so that I could catch the morning bus into Stehekin the next day to meet my sisters. This was where I really noticed the FUNGI. The diversity was incredible. Apparently, there are 11,000 different FUNGI in Washington. I believe it. The next morning I was able to hike the 12 miles to the High Bridge Bus Stop. The bus is a National Park bus and takes about an hour to get to Stehekin, with one stop at the “BAKERY.” The nice surprise was that Shauna and Terri were on the bus at High Bridge when I boarded! The passengers all knew me and greeted me with “Hi Chief!” My sisters!!! I felt like an instant celebrity. Had a cinnamon roll at the FAMOUS Stehekin Bakery, which every thru hiker will remember when talking about Stehekin!

Maureen's favorite

Stehekin is at the end of Lake Chelan, 55 miles from Chelan. The only way to get there is by ferry or float plane or walk to the High Bridge Bus stop on the PCT. They have very limited internet, that is via satellite, no cell service, no phone lines – also satellite. “Stehekin is what America was!” Logo on t-shirts in Stehekin. Shauna and Terri had a 2 bedroom with a kitchenette at the North Cascade Lodge in Stehekin. This quaint town consists of the lodge, the restaurant, Post Office, and the N. Cascades Natl Park Intepretive Center and a very, tiny market. Stehekin sits on the shores of Lake Chelan, surrounded by the Cascades – the North Cascades Natl’ park. The weather was in the 80’s during the day and low 60’s at night. Heaven. It was a beautiful afternoon. My sisters went for a 4 hour kayak as I hung out on a log in the middle of Lake Chelan with about 8 other hikers. One of the hikers kayaked out an 18-pak of PBR’s to the log! I felt like a 20 something. I will never forget this moment on the PCT. A little bitter sweet. I didn’t want it to end. I knew from Stehekin my trek would be complete in 88 miles and I would probably never see these hikers again. Stayed an extra day in Stehekin waiting for my overnight/express guaranteed delivery from the USPS. Desperately needed my new shoes and my Canadian permit – which clearly stated that I need to have in my pocession at all times! Having to stay that extra day, I had to say goodbye to my small group of hikers that I had hoped to cross the border with…again, bitter sweet. Sure enough, we didn’t need the Canadian permit and my shoes blew out on the last day of the trip. Somehow I was able to hold them together. Not much faith in the USPS. Maureen got to know “Jonathan” the Stehekin Post Office workder as she called twice daily to get updates on lost package.

Pair #6 - barely made it!

Decided after playing the waiting game, to get back on the trail. 4 days, 88 miles to the monument. Weather was nice, scenery was epic., water was plentiful. (note – September 2013 was the wettest on record for Stehekin). Walked alone for 2 days. Camped together with Buff, Skittles and Scones. On third day met up with Kiddo and Eric (her boyfriend joined her for last part of walk). Up to the very last day, 23 miles and rain damaged trails were very difficult, but arrived at monument at noon. From there it was still 8 miles to Manning Park.

Arrived at Manning Park Resort at 4pm and showered and was so happy to see Maureen just an hour later! Storm that night was epic. Delayed the Seattle SeaHawks game. Our room shook with thunder and lit up throughout the night. We both couldn’t sleep and got to experience an incredible show by Nature herself. and not in a tent….

Buff, Skittles and Scones coming into Manning Park

Manning Park Resort

Mo on the PCT out of Manning towards Monument

Winter arrived with avengence on the 16th of September. I arrived on the 15th. The stories that have since followed have been heartbreaking. Hikers lost, hikers stranded, snow levels 3-4ft deep with postholing to hip level, trail impossible to find, SAR (Search and Rescue) teams fully activated. Many hikers had to make the decision to stop their thruhike with only 100 miles short of completion. To have started in mid April and already walked 2500 miles to call it quits can be beyond frustrating, to say the least. To call it quits can be beyond frustrating, to say the least.

Not a good sign

Took 2 days down time at the resort, swimming, hot tub, and small walks to show Maureen all the FUNGI. The 3 hour drive back to Vancouver was interesting. Maureen drove as I gripped the seat cushions. Stressful and terrifying. More stressful than having that bear munching outside my tent. Traffic, high speeds, people, high rises, taxis, freeways, it was all too much. Was so thankful when we boarded our Coast Starlight Amtrak train back to Santa Barbara. Perfect way to reintroduce myself to society. Wine tasting along the Wilammette Valley in the Parlor car can’t be beat!

This is good

Dining Car

Vancouver rooftop wine

That’s it. Dodgers are in the playoffs. Airstream is ready to travel and I’m home in Santa Barbara. Home Sweet Home. Life is Good.
Thanks for following along.
              
40 years waiting, 5 months walking, Sublime, surreal. 

my signature

Signing off, Chief

My Homecoming GIFT from Maureen!!!

The Final Frontier, Manning Park Resort

Santa Barbara Airport. Mile 0. 7:30am and 

Manning Park Resort, mile 2669

Big surprise!  Flight delayed for 2 plus hours due to fog in SF. My daughter is always reminding me how horrible flights going in and out of SF are. Now it's a matter of getting my very tight connection in SF to Vancouver. Lots of anxiety, running and almost tears! They did open the locked door to my Vancouver connection and I was able to board.  This is why we would stick to walking and birds should be the only one's allowed to fly!  Kevin might have the right idea?

It's hard to believe this incredible journey is coming to an end. I will miss so many parts of the PCT, but will so enjoy having my husband back home. They write books about "re-entry" for thru hikers, but I feel like Kevin will do just fine.  He is very fortunate that he doesn't have to go back to work and can slowly get back with the "real world."  There is lots of cold beer, cheese-Mac casserole in fridge and Michael's exquisite bottle of champagne on ice, all awaiting his arrival. Bodie will most likely have a cardiac arrest and life will assume its chaotic and crazy pace. 

Now our only rather BIG obstacle is getting him back into the US. It was a rather stressful last week as the USPS lost my overnight Express guaranteed next day delivery of new shoes and more importantly, his Canadian entry permit!  Lets just hope the Canadian's reputation hold true and we get back to the US without too many questions as how he arrived!  I spent hours on the phone with the PCT, the Canadian border patrol, Jonathan, the postman from Stehekin (where the packages did finally arrive - 1 week late.). Never in my life have I broke out in hives, but there's always a first time for everything. Amazing what the body does when in stress. Aside from the anxiety of knowing he is walking with duct taped shoes and no legal entry into Canada, washed out final leg of the PCT, I do believe he's going to MAKE it!

Where do I begin with my thanks.  First, and most importantly to the wonderful community of the PCT. There is no best seller that describes this amazing network. The trail angels, the trail magic, the trail towns and their outpouring of hospitality, the resupply spots - small gas stations, small inn's, little liquor stores, sandwich shops - all of these kind people that have allowed the hundreds of resupply boxes to clutter their small business for a short period of time. Then there are the hikers themselves. With all their cute, funny, weird, and interesting trail names. I realized I don't know one hikers real name!  I had NO idea how wonderful all of these people would be. For some reason you go into this with the expectation that the hikers will be a little strange?  Homeless sort of bum like?  My husband would be the exception to the rule, Really that's what most people think. How could someone in their right mind just set off for 5 months and walk from Mexico to Canada?  So WRONG. My world has been made a better place since I have been able to be apart of this trail. I was so fortunate to be able to do the trail magic in the California sections early on. Warner springs where I picked up Shane, Aqua Dulce, Tehachapi, Walker Pass, Red's Meadow and finally my most amazing 3 week road trip through the Northern California section ending in Etna. Through all of this I was so happy to support Kevin and have the opportunity to meet so many wonderful people. The PCT will always be a special part do our lives and we will definitely give back what we can for all the trail has given to us. We are already planning our trail magic for next years class of 2014 and a few days of pampering at Walker Pass. We are also excited about joining John Lyons as part of his volunteer trail crew outside of the Etna area next year (if we can get a spot! Popular volunteer group). If I lived in a trail town, I would open my house as a trail angel in a heartbeat. 

Then there are all of our friends, and people we have never even met. Many that are following the blogs and the great support and words of encouragement they have provided. My family, my bestie with her wonderful goodies and constant sanity checks, friends that supported Kevin with goodies and trail support (Jackie and the Martin, the Beardsmore's, the Phelp's, Greg and Tom, Pat, Terri and Shauna). My morning Dog park friends who followed this journey so closely and showed so much care and support (Joe, Mary, Lisa, Peter, and Michael) without you every morning, things didn't look so grim. Dr. M, who was right there with medical advice following the knee ordeal, Trout Lake Abbey, their staff and especially Brother Kozen.  Bonnie, Casey, Erin and Danny for helping out with Bodie, which means so much to me.  Jeanette and the Lance trailer - the ultimate trail magic through N. California! Rik and Paul (BeeMan), the ultimate trail enthusiasts!  Counted on them for so much emotional support. Special thanks to Jim, Otis and Joe for helping with my "surprise!" And then there is Shane,  Kevin could have never started this journey without him. Together, father and son started this adventure. It was one of the most emotional goodbyes Kevin had when Shane left at Warner Springs. I'm sure I've forgotten many specific names, but you all have been more than wonderful. 

The weather has changed here in Canada.  The huckleberry bushes are turning red and the Larch trees are turning yellow. Fall is in the air and time to finish this walk. 

So one more blog left with "Chief's" story from this last leg. In Manning Park Resort, which by the way, is quite nice, with my walking man and can't truly believe we are heading home TOGETHER!  Taking the coast starlight Amtrak home from Vancouver. Sleeper car with the works. It's all about relaxing. Keep looking for invite to party!  Coming soon in mid October. 

Chief's wife

Chief with Kiddo at Northern terminus

For Gerilyn and Rick 

The "Sisters in Stehekin!"

 Last Leg – Stehekin “the way through” to Canada, mile 2574

Stehekin is truly the end of the earth with the only way in by boat or float plane (or along the PCT trail of course) and no cell reception or telephone access.  The name translates from its Native American roots as “the way through”.

One automobile, plane, taxi, bus, and boat ride later Chief’s sisters (Shauna and Terri) arrived in Stehekin to meet up with and to cheer him on for his last push into Canada (that would be us since we are writing this portion of the blog).   Yes that’s right; Kevin is on the last leg of his journey.  Although bad weather caused Kevin to hole up in Baring and held him back from his original destination date, Shauna quickly booked an extra night in Stehekin to increase the odds of being there when Kevin arrived. This gave us two days in Stehekin to socialize and play before Kevin arrived and that we did. As you can see from the pictures it was an amazingly beautiful place to spend an extra day in, so suffering is not on our menu….

We met almost everyone staying or working in Stehekin including many of the incoming PCT hikers.  With very few “hot spots” (the Bakery, the Garden, the Ranch and the Lodge), everywhere we went someone knew us. Like the PCT hikers that knew us as Chief’s sisters, friends we met at the Lodge (Diane and Merrill from Portland), a family we meet at our hotel back in Chalon, groups traveling on the Shuttle back and forth from the Ranch for dinner, and just friendly people we meet along the walks to the “The Stehekin Pastry Co.” also known as the Bakery.

Really, is everyone in Washington as nice and friendly as the people we met on our Trip? Truly, the people who visit this corner of the world are amazing. Thank you!

 While we were there we were able to witness the process of the PCT hikers looking for the next meal at the restaurant, then grabbing a bite at the bakery and back to the dinner meal.  The goal is to get as much home-cooked/prepared food in you before you go back on the trail. Then you do laundry, unpack, pick up your “box” at the post office, repack and in there somewhere take a shower. As Maureen has shared with you, this group of hikers has a different view on life for five months and they come from all walks of life.

Chief hiked 27 miles on his last day to Stehekin, literally “hauling ass” to arrive by the 10^th. From the moment we met him on the shuttle he began telling trail stories which could only be told by him in the way that he does tell those great stories. Kevin, when did you become this master storyteller? Everyone on the shuttle was transfixed.  Everyone was so gracious and genuinely impressed that the two sisters had travelled so far to connect up with their wayward brother on this amazing journey of his. By the mere fact that we had been waiting for two days in anticipation of his arrival and had come so far to see him and that he was so close to finishing, Kevin achieved RockStar status in the Stehekin Valley. So on our last day we watched from the retreating boat as he graced his fans with his presence leaning comfortably against the wooden railing and telling I am sure another one of his marvelous stories.

You go Kevin (Chief), you are amazing...and in some ways you are ending one journey and beginning another.

Love,

Shauna and Terri!

Leaving Chelan and heading to Stehekin

The only other way to get to Stehekin....

Lady of the Lake II arriving in Stehekin

Room #9..our room..before Kevin....on the bottom corner...

Lake Chelan

Another view of Lake Chelan

Just "freshly" picked up from the trail..

All three Wallaces......

PCTers Scabby and T-bag

Kevin reuniting with Kiddo and her boyfriend Eric.

Terri and the Shuttle in front of the Garden.

The 2 mile walk from Stehekin to the Pastry Company

The Garden

The Garden...Carl the Gardener has been there for 40 years....

Flowers in the Garden..

The Stehekin Post Office box with the boxes...

Oh! Getting so close!!!

Glacier Peak, Washington, Section K, mile 2540

my Bible for the last 5 months

About 30 miles to go before he gets to Stehekin, where his lovely sisters await his arrival!  Terri and Shauna did the big trip to Stehekin, coming in on the ferry from Chalon. They are so excited about seeing their brother and giving him lots of "family Love!"  From there, its a matter of 5 walking days to the North Monument of the Pacific Crest Trail in Manning Park, Canada!
Where I will be waiting with OPEN ARMS!!! 



The weather in Washington continues to be just what was expected.  RAIN.  Nonstop rain.  Actually it did stop for one day when he was doing a zero to dry out at Skykomish.  From Skykomish, you have to hitchhike to the Dinsmore's (trail angels, extrodannaire!!).  Kevin arrived just in time for enough clear weather to dry everything out....and then start all over again.  The plan was to stay for only one day and get back on the trail, but Mother Nature had other plans.  Everyone that was there, had to stay put.  They watched movies and ate LOTS of food at the little local restaurant/bar.

Drying out at the Dinsmore's

I was able to actually "talk" to him as they had cell coverage.  Was nice.  I can't imagine being wet every single day, really wet.  Check out this link.
http://www.komonews.com/news/local/Rare-summertime-Flood-Watch-issued-for-all-of-Western-Washington-222424681.html

Yep!  That was just lovely.  So back on the trail after a couple of crazy weather nights and back to the constant downpour, sometimes steady, sometimes really hard rain, where you just have to call it quits and set up the tent.  Since you really can't cook in the tent, it's cold instant mashed potatoes for the evening.  Yum?

some interesting stats to date!

• NO more cooking, dehydrating and sealing resupplies! Last boxes sent to Stehekin
• Last pair of shoes bought and sent....total=7 pairs of shoes
• Last batch of "popular" PCT/Cronshaw honey bars baked - well, except that the LP Hotshots Love them also.
• No more drying fruit, jerkey, meals...the big Xcalibur dehydrater is going into storage
• No more lithium batteries, my god, I should have bought stock in those
• No more weekly Post Office trips
• and hopefully, no more REI visits to purchase fuel, new socks, ShotBlocks, and ProBars...man, can't wait to see our dividend next year!!!
• Counting down the sleepless nights where I wonder where he is and where he'll be and how he is?

Thanks for all your well wishes and continued support.  Next blog is coming from "the Sisters in Stehekin!"

I'm off to Canada next Sunday, September 15!  Pretty excited and nervous.  Pretty proud, to say the least, of my Walking Man.

Chief's wife

Border Fever - 260 miles to GO

Summit Inn, Snoqualamie, WA mile 2401

Chief at Goat Rocks

Yay.  He made it to Snoqualamie.  I love that town name.  So the day he rolled into the Summit Inn to pick up his resupply, it finally stopped raining.  Time enough to get a room in the Inn and set up his house to dry out.  First it went on the patio, then the deck, then the bathroom and finally the parking lot.
Kevin chose to stay at the Inn because it was directly off of the trail and the Trail Angel (the MOSTEL) was about 4 miles away.  Easy decision at that point in time!  It was so nice to actually talk on the phone with him.  He can really talk these days...I think the solitude has begun to get to him.  My iPhone clocked him in at 38 minutes on our last phone call.  That's more than he has ever talked on the phone to me in one setting in the last 30 years!  It was nice.

So other than the crappy weather, it's been a tug to the Finale.  I've been following other thru hikers blogs that I have come to know through Chief and through my Mobile Trail Angel trip.  They are ALL feeling the same way.  Negative, want to QUIT, want to come home, want to get off of the trail, and mostly want to FINISH.  All of this in the same thought process...bit mind blowing to say the least.  I keep reassuring him that in just a few weeks, this will all be DONE.  Then it's back home and all that will remain of this incredible journey and trail is his MEMORIES.  Keep pulling Canada.  Keep pulling.

Fan Mail!!!!  A few days ago, one of the other thru's, BeeRad, saw Chief on the trail and announced that he had MAIL!  What?  Yah, apparently there was a letter from his wife on a PCT marker?  "Not my wife, say's Chief,", well, "Then you have FAN MAIL!," says BeeRad.  Allison, I have never met you, but this was the BEST ever.  Really encouraged him and I sure hope you are continuing to follow his blog, because you made a pretty crappy day into a great day for my husband.  THANK you so much.  And I'm sure glad that Dan and Denise set you up with the blogspot.

The Aardvark .... lots of good food coming out of a trailer in Snoqualamie. Kara, the woman that runs the "mostel" also runs the Aardvark.  This is true hiker hang-out and really good food.  Most of us, actually, ALL of us, are super hungry again.  Can't get enough food.  My first night at the Aardvark I had 3 dinners, all delicious.  Hung out with my guys and chatted about trail gossip.  The who's and where's of where everyone is at. Who's injured, who had to go home, have you seen ??? (trail gossip).  He highly recommends the chicken curry (which by the way would get big rolling eyes if I made that at home?)











So the Chief hits the trail tomorrow morning.  Off to Skykomish (another very cool town name).  There he will stay at the Dinsmore's Hiker Haven.  Some very cool Trail Angels that are the last of the bunch.   From there, it's off to Stehekin, where he hopes to see his sister's, who have been planning this trip from the beginning.  Unfortunately, with the knee issue and the 2 zero days needed, he may miss them.  So sad, but that's the story of this trail.  Can't really plan and pin any specific time and date out.

Following are some pictures that Kevin took along his Washington route.  Enjoy.  and thanks SO much Alison!!!!

That's Kevin on the ledge

Lovely Washington weather

more of Goat Rocks

postholing through the snow fields

KIDDO...what a girl

Home

Epic campsite and weather cleared up 

sometimes you just have to sleep where you can

my view from the tent

Gerilyn and Rick...for you.  It was a long reach across a scary Columbia River!

Till next time,

Chief's wife