Saturday, July 13, 2013

The Community, Magic and Culture of the PCT...from Chief's wife's eyes....



Burney Falls State Park – July 11 - 13
Mile 1423

My road trip journey continues as I travel the PCT section of N. California.  This section comprises 409 walking miles, which for me translate into about 150 driving miles.  I love it.  I spend so little time in the truck driving, mostly hanging out at great campsites and little mtn. towns.  I continue to pick up thru hikers and get them back on the trail after their resupply pick-ups. 

This morning, as I was leaving Hat Creek campground, I picked up Texas (who I haven’t seen since my resupply at Walker Pass with Dan’s cheesecake cupcakes! Texas remembers them fondly as he ate 6 of them!)  and the couple from Maine, Gumby and DoubleTake. Bodie loved them.  He was their early morning wake-up call as he bounced into their tent at 7am.  Usually the hikers have all left before 6am for the day, but they took a late morning as they were waiting for the Post Office to open to get their resupply boxes.  He had a great time with Gumby in her tent.  The hikers that have had to leave dogs behind for 5 months, LOVE Bodie.  They really miss their dogs. 

The little camp store was the “hiker trash” hangout last night.  6 hikers came in late in the afternoon and drank beer, ate ice cream and taco’s all afternoon in front of the store. Was so happy to see Kattywompus, IceMan, Maverick and Lodgepole (father/son team).  They all made me promise that Chief would take a zero-day today at Burney Falls so they could catch up with him.  Apparently, he made Kattywompus a promise at Sonora Pass that he would walk “old man speed” so that they would meet again.  I’m hoping he will consider the zero day?  He is only taking 3 more zero’s before Mt. Hood (Timberline Lodge), when I arrive from Portland on Aug. 19.  I know that Ashland is one of the zero’s.  He desperately needs a haircut.  Sorry Geralyn! I’m sure whatever the outcome is, it will all grow back for you to give him a proper haircut in October.

I’ve made a big Dutch Oven dinner for this evening and hope to feed at least 4 that I think are with Chief.  Leaving Burney Falls, the PCT takes the BIG BEND and heads west into the Shasta-Trinity National Forest.  I’m not sure if I’ll be able to follow along as well through this section (limited access).  Castle Crags State Park may be my last camping spot before I head home on the I-5.  Ick.  I may decide to continue North-west and meet Chief at Etna.  Etna is a very cool little town between the Shasta-Trinity and the Klamath National Forest.  My parents retired there for 10 years before moving back to our area when my father became ill.  It has all the charm of a little, mtn, community (brewery included).  Kevin won’t even talk to me about leaving.  He loves this little traveling vortex!  It will be back to hiker boxes to be picked up and no more nice bed and cushion to sit on every other night! 

Several hundred people leave the Mexican border around springtime to begin the adventure of a lifetime – a thru-hike, a continuous journey along the entire length of the PCT.  
Along the way, thru’s experience the serenity and fullness of life at nature’s cadence (which I really enjoy!) and meet residents of nearby communities (trail towns) who sometimes perform acts of profound generosity (called Trail Magic).  Kevin has told me so many stories of trail magic that I can’t even begin to go into them all, but they are out there and always a surprise. Trail magic is tangible evidence that the trail brings people together in unique ways and has a culture all of its own.  Usually the term, “trail Magic” is used to describe the kindness of strangers, who sometimes come to be known as “trail angels.”  Trail Magic may be as basic as a cold drink at a road crossing, or a ride into town from a trailhead.  It may be a home cooked meal, a clean pair of socks, or a soft bed to sleep on for a night.  It definitely infuses a hiker with gratitude and faith in the human spirit. 


Another aspect of PCT life is the adoption of trail names.  As you are aware, Chief got his name from a friend of ours, Paul. aka BeeMan,. He is a section hiker as he continues to work as a teacher in our hometown.  He takes many of his long breaks to complete various sections.  He has been an inspiration for Chief. We were so hopeful that they could finish together, but I’m not sure about that. Trail names are generally given to you by other hikers.  No one calls each other by their given names, and I still get quite a chuckle from hikers when they hear me call Chief, Kevin!  They just laugh.  He’s only Chief to them. 

To communicate up and down the trail, hikers use log books that are left at trail junctions or in local towns.  They serve as the trail grapevine and can be very helpful for unknown water cache sites. 

I know that I’ve touched on some of these “qualities” of the PCT,  in some of my previous updates, but I hope you get the idea.  It’s really quite magical.











Chief's wife.

I've attached some pics of our hiker party at Space 45 in Burney Falls State Park Campground.  It was quite a magical evening, one I'll never forget.
Space 45!  Party spot

Pancakes for breakfast.  What no granola bar?


Chief, Birdman and Cowboy 

Cowgirl, Midnight Choc, Maverick




some of the gang



Our very cool camping neighbor, Chuck..who was so interested in meeting the hikers


silly stuff

Maverick insisting he can eat all of these dogs?

The cooler that kept giving

my very poor attempt at a Jump Pic!  sorry Erin, didn't do so well


IceMan and Kattywompus repacking after their resupply arrived 


Will they find us?
Resupply box
LodgePole (Maverick's dad)

The Hat Creek Rim, Oh my Goodness!



By Chief
Mile 1423

Hat Creek Rim is about 50 miles from Old Station to Burney Falls State Park.  Basically, it exists because of a volcanic valley with lava cliffs.  Trail starts out from Old Station, within 3 miles you get to the Subway cave, which is a lava tube.  Sometimes hikers will spend the afternoon in the subway cave, which is at least 20 degrees cooler than the ambient temperature.  From the cave you climb 500 ft. to a lava cliff, which you follow for basically 30 miles, with no water.  There are signs along the trail that specifically say, “Don’t drink surface water in the Hat Creek Rim.”  Not that there was any water.
Think Mojave desert when you walk this stretch.  Fires have burned much of the vegetation along this stretch hence there is no shade. Our strategy was to see the subway cave and then walk to the lookout (7 miles from Old Station), shade up to the late afternoon hours.  Left at 4pm with Cowgirl and Midnight Choc.  We then walked 13.5 miles to a water cache, which we were hopeful was going to be there.  We were prepared to continue on the entire 30 miles without a water supply (carrying lots of water).  The trail tread was strewn with lava rocks.  It meandered along the rim of a cliff.  There was no trail maintenance and I can’t reason why it meandered when it just could have been straight? and it was a hot afternoon.  About 2 miles from the cache, I wasn’t sure I was going to make it without a resupply.  Arrived at the mile marker of the water cache at 8:30.  There it was.  40-1 gallon containers of spring water from the Hat Creek basin.  At that moment, I felt like the next best thing to HEAVEN. Thank God for Trail Angels. I filled up with 4 liters of water.  Walked 200 yards until I found a flat spot.  Rolled out my bedroll and began to prepare my dinner.  Best dinner I have had in weeks. Tortilla’s, hummus, chili cheese wheat thins, beef jerky and snickers for dessert. 

It’s difficult to describe this feeling of euphoria from the discovery of water and a flat spot to sleep and a simple dinner.

That was only HALF of the Hat Creek Rim! I was pleased to see Cowgirl and Midnight Choc. to arrive about 40 minutes later.  Slept in this morning.  Started walking at around 6am for about 12 miles. Again through exposed lava fields to the next water – creeklet.  After that it was another 11.5 miles to Burney.  Long stretch.

Caught up with Beads, Lint, Cowboy and BirdMan.  Stumbled across, not 1, but 2 Trail Magic Caches’.  The first was some beer with a nice note.  The second magic had a table, 2 ice chests (with ice), soda, beer, and a box of assorted chips and crackerjacks, which I enjoyed.  Even got a mermaid tattoo from my crackerjack box!  8 more miles continued with a mix of forest and lava until we arrived at the Burney Falls State Park. 

I had made it past the dreaded Hat Creek Rim.  Had a large soft serve ice cream at the General Store in the Park.

Chief


Hat Rim Creek Magic - the Water Cache..Thank you Most wonderful Trail Angel 
The start of the Hat Rim Creek Trail

30 miles of this little crappy, meandering trail that can't seem to go in a straight line

Have to watch your every step or you trip on Lava Rock

Next Trail Magic.  They left a camera to take pics of yourselves.  Bead doing her duty

Hmmm?  not PBR this time!

PAUL C.  aka Bee Man.  Here's the tat you and I are going to get when I get home in October!  Get ready

Lint and Beads enjoying the lawn chairs and a beer

Yes.  less miles to Canada

almost to Burney